Since
he started at Saint Michael's College in 2010, Taylor Luneau has been pestering
me to go rock climbing in Smugglers Notch.
Taylor came to St. Mikes with a strong athletic background, but little
climbing exposure and yet wanted to tackle longer, harder routes that require
solid technique and protection abilities.
I recollect spending many days trying to channel his enthusiasm into
more realistic short term goals. By the
end of his first summer he was confidently leading easy climbs placing his own
traditional protection. Within the next
year he was ready to take his American Mountain Guide Association Single Pitch
Instructor Course, and at the start of his junior year he passed the AMGA SPI
exam and moved into the ranks of our lead climbing instructors. During that time his ability and confidence
have matured together.
On
Friday, October 11th, we finally got to climb together in the
Notch. Despite having to be back at
campus for class by noon, Taylor was fired up to meet at 7 am and jump on a 5.8
climb called “The Diagonal” and try one of the just barely established third
pitch finishes. As I belayed him leading
while the sun began to peek over the ridge behind us, I had the time to reflect
on the changes that a few short years bring.
Therein lays the nature and the paradox of what we do here at the
Wilderness Program. We love having
students that come to us full of passion and drive for a sport, but often have
to pull the reins back on them as they are often true novices inspired by what
they have seen or read and the exposure that they have had. Through focused training and mentoring, their
skills often develop quickly, although experience still lags due to the time
constraints that all students face.
Finally, they are graduating, and we hope that they have not lost the
passion that they brought to us, but that we have tempered their drive with the
skills they will need to continue pursuing their endeavors safely. Needless to say, Taylor did a brilliant job
leading all three pitches, the sun came out, and of course the ropes got
tangled around 2 trees on our rappel. Another
beautiful day spent in the mountains with an exceptional student.
|
Taylor starting The Diagonal |
|
Taylor moving through the crux moves on The Diagonal |
|
Leading the 3rd pitch of The Diagonal Left finish |
|
Finishing moves on the 3rd pitch |
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